All masks will be checked at every official FIE competition and at the Olympic Games, using an instrument with a spring-loaded point (Cf. Fig. I-3, Mask Punch).

In production, there are two "types" of mask punches available. One type uses a "tactile" indicator that it has reached 12kg -- the plunger hits the ball of your thumb. The other uses a visual indicator -- a section of the shaft enters the cone of the barrel to a particular line. All tactile mask punches can be used visually -- by watching for their shaft to be flush with the top of the barrel. All major mask manufacturers make a mask punch: Prieur, Allstar, Uhlmann, Leon-Paul, and Triplette Competition Arms.

The following table describes each model of tester available. This list is not exhaustive. Each of these is discussed in more detail below.

HOW TO INSPECT A MASK

Examine the outer appearance of the mask:

• If the mask looks perfectly new or almost new:
  1. Use a F.I.E. mask punch to verify whether the construction of the mesh is sufficiently strong or too weak. Carry out the test at a number of different places, one of these being the mesh on the side. The best regions to test include immediately in the center, around the edge of the face, and just over where the fencer's eyes might be.
  2. If the mesh resists the punch, see whether the wires around the mesh have been deformed. Normally, this can be seen from the cracks in the tinning. In such a case the mesh is probably too weak. A second test on the same space in the mesh will confirm this.

• If the mask looks used:
  1. examine the netting against the light to see whether there is any deformed mesh or broken wires. At these points, you should carry out the F.I.E. punch test in addition to a normal general test as described above.
  2. If the punch test enters as far as its shoulder the mask should be rejected.

In cases where the punch enters into the mesh as far as its shoulder, the mask should be rejected.

If there are no visible deformations and the mesh withstands the test, do not repeat the number of tests unnecessarily. In all cases inspect the fixing of the bib to the mask.

Tactile Mask Punch

The most common type of mask punch available use a tactile indicator. It uses a plunger with a shaft length which "hits" the ball of your thumb when it reaches 12kg. Most are based on the published design in the FIE documents that was originally manufactured by Prieur. The TCA punch is nearly identical to the Prieur design but TCA recommends that it be used visually. In practice it can be used tactically if one takes the precautions described below where each punch tester is discussed.

To verify that you can accurately test masks with your mask punch using the tactile indicator method, test the punch on a scale, treating the scale like you would a mask. If it reaches 12kg (26.5lbs) when the indicator hits your thumb, then you can use it as a tactile punch. If you find that treating it as a visual indicating punch (see instructions below) yields accurate results, then use it visually. If neither method results in a 12kg test, you are either using the tool incorrectly or its spring is defective.

1. To use it, one holds the barrel of the punch tester in the hollow of the hand with the ball of your thumb over the end of the barrel.
2. Your other hand should be holding the mask, place your hand "behind" the area that you plan on testing, supporting the mesh with your fingers. (Do not put your hand "flat" behind the mask because the mask punch could hurt your hand if/when it pushes through the mesh.) Pull the mask into your lap.
3. Place the punch into the mesh where you want to test, do not put any pressure at this time, do not torque (no angular or rotary movements) the mesh in any way. Gently bend over the mask so that the punch ends up in the "hollow" between your shoulder and your chest. Ensure that the punch is at 90 degrees to the mesh, no pressure is on the mask or punch yet, and that you are not torquing the mask with the punch.
4. Relax your arm and shoulder.
5. Watch the punch and slowly press on the punch using your stomach muscles. This is very much like "bending over". I have done this in my lap while sitting, over a knee on a field, or on a table while sitting. (If the punch begins to torque or shake, immediately relax -- releasing pressure on the punch. Return to the previous step.)
6. STOP when you feel the end of the plunger hit the ball of your thumb or if the plunger deforms the mesh and the conical section slips through the mesh. Do not continue to push after the plunger hits your thumb. You can damage the mask this way. In theory the ball of your thumb should be flush with the end cap of the barrel of the tester -- which is the calibrated 12kg mark. In practice, some flesh of your thumb enters the barrel which can result in false positives. Again, its important that you practice with a scale before actually using your mask punch.

If the punch still rests on its conical section, the

MASK IS GOOD ...
 

else if the conical portion has completely entered into the mesh and the punch rests on its shoulder, the

MASK IS UNSATISFACTORY !
 

A newer design of the tester by Allstar provides a "longer" snout on the barrel to protect the mask from over zealous punch-operators. This variant is designed to pass the mask if the outer barrel hits the mesh or the plunger hits the thumb and in either case that the plunger does not slip through or deform the mesh. This design of the mask punch has the ability to provide "false positives" (indicating the mask is good when it isn't). Please see the section below which details each mask punch.

Visual Mask Punch

All punches may be used visually. The Uhlmann punch must be used visually. It has no tactile indicator. Instead its punch has "two" shoulders -- in this case the one which achieves the lightest pressure (the one closes to the barrel) is the indicating shoulder.

All other punches use the "end" of the plunger as an indicator. When it reaches the same height as the "end" of the barrel, the mask punch is providing 12kg of pressure.

TCA recommends their punch be used visually since it requires that the plunger raise completely to the end of the barrel. In a tactile test some of the "flesh" of your thumb depresses into the barrel which causes incorrect readings. Careful tactile use may be possible, but one should practice with a scale before using a TCA tester tactilely

There are two methods which use visual indication that the punch is providing 12kg of pressure:

1. This method of use is nearly identical to the method describe above for tactile indication. It differs only in the last step where one stops once the visual indicator has been reached. Do not depress the punch farther -- you risk damaging the mask.
2. This method is recommended by TCA for the use of their mask punch. It can be used for any brand of mask punch.
   1. ●  Select the spots you will test.
   2. ●  Place the mask in your lap with the section to be test up and pointed away from you.
   3. ●  Place the punch into the mesh between the wires. Make sure it is at 90 degrees in all 
          directions from the plane of the mesh.
   4. ●  With both hands grasp the barrel of the mask punch.
   5. ● Gently pull the punch towards you. Carefully watch the indicator and stop immediately when
          the mask-punch reaches 12kg.
   6. ●  As above, if the mask punch enters the mesh to rest on its collar, the mask fails.

Each method has its own issues. The first method, which uses stomach muscles and only one arm:

• ●  It is rather hard with a non-Uhlmann mask punch to provide correct pressure, at a 90
      degree angle, and at the same time see the end of the punch for many people.
• ●  This method requires practice to get it right.
• ●  This method provides more support for the underlying mesh.

The second method which uses both hands:

• ●  Stresses the whole region of mesh under test. (You are not supporting the mesh with
      your hand beneath it.)
• ●  You are using arm strength. Be very careful not to wiggle or torque the mask punch
      while doing this method.
• ●  Do not rush or push too quickly -- as this results in providing more force than
      required for an accurate tests and can result in false negatives (see below under
      mistakes).
• ●  The positive issue is that the person who owns the mask can more easily see if a
      mistake has been made testing their mask.
   

Description of each mask punch regularly available

While most mask punches share a similar design, actual use varies. Further, there are ergonomic decisions you face when considering purchasing a mask punch. Below each mask punch readily available in the United States is described. I have tried to include various usage notes and warning. Lastly, I will compare and contrast the advantages of each mask punch.

 

Allstar

Allstar improved the design of the FIE mask punch by extending the barrel. This design limits the amount that the punch may travel, successfully limiting the amount of pressure that may be applied. This safeguards against over-zealous armorers.

Its a made out of the same grey plastic found in the Leon Paul mask punch and is commonly mistaken for the Leon-Paul. Its rather light and durable.

Unfortunately, masks that were made with mesh that is wider than average modern masks may "pass" incorrectly. This is because, the mask punch actually starts depressing after entering the mesh a significant distance. It cannot put a full 12kg of pressure before stopping on the snout of the barrel. This mask punch should not be used to validate masks with snap out bibs or that are uncoated foil-epee masks. For this reason, this mask punch should not be used by SCA marshals and in clubs or colleges where older masks are commonly found.

SCA marshals with this mask punch might attempt to cut the barrel down by carefully cutting off the snout. This is a theoretical fix and has not been completely tested, yet.

 

Leon Paul

The Leon Paul is a workhorse. It follows the published FIE designs and is made of a durable grey plastic. Its fairly light, has a unified probe and shaft. It never needs adjustments but periodically you should test its spring. Many USFA divisions have used this mask punch successfully for years. Care should be made if you take it apart to not cross-thread the cap when reassembling. (This will destroy the threads and make the mask punch unusable. This mask punch has been out-of-stock recently.)

 

Prieur

The original 12kg mask punch was manufactured by Prieur. Prieur has long been considered the best mask punch on the market. It is the most expensive. It is also one of the heaviest. Its metal barrel is chromed brass. A unified steel punch and shaft means that there is no maintenance needed except verifying the spring tension. You can adjust the mask punch to push lighter by unscrewing the front of the barrel.

IMPORTANT USAGE NOTE: Prieur prematurely began shipping 18kg versions of their mask punch when the FIE was considering increasing mask-punch standards. The user should be careful to ensure that a Prieur mask punch pushes at only 12kg and not 18kg.

 

Triplette Competition Arms

TCA is based on the original FIE design. Their mask punch is solid brass with a steel punch. The punch screws into a brass spring stop and the indicator shaft.

The precise machining and spring requires that the plunger come to the very top of the barrel to reach 12kg. For this reason, TCA recommends using the visual indication technique.

IMPORTANT USAGE NOTE: The indicator shaft may come loose from the plunger. If it falls out without anyone noticing, a mask will incorrectly be failed and be permanently destroyed. If the plunger only loosens, it will reduce the amount of pressure the mask punch provides when the indicator shows that the punch is at 12kg and thereby passing a mask that should fail. In order to safeguard against this, apply lock-tite onto the threads of the punch where it screws into the indicator shaft. In use, before using on each and every mask you test, take the mask punch apart and inspect the punch and ensure that the indicator shaft is screwed onto it tightly. Experience shows that use and transport routinely loosen the indicator shaft.

 

Uhlmann

The Uhlmann mask punch is the smallest unit available. It has a small aluminum barrel and no indicator hole in the end for tactile usage. Instead, on its barrel are two shoulders. The shoulder nearest the barrel is the visual indicator. This mask punch is extremely portable.

IMPORTANT USAGE NOTE: Depress this mask punch slowly. Its very easy to overshoot the visual indicator and provide more than 12kg. The spring is very forgiving but quick and overzealous will result in destroyed masks.
 

While most mask punches are based on a common design, you can see that there are substantial differences. If you are in a modern club testing recently made masks and many of your armorers are inexperienced, the Allstar is an excellent choice. If you have to transport the punch and weight is an important consideration, the Uhlmann and the Leon Paul are clear winners -- with the Uhlmann's size edging out the Leon Paul. The Triplette is the most affordable and is a traditional design. If you want the best no matter what the cost, the Prieur is still an obvious choice.
 

If the mask fails...

In the USFA, the procedure for a failed mask is clear in Part 1, paragraph 27-7:

A mask that does not comply with the safety requirements laid down in article 27/7 will be rendered visibly unusable by the weapons inspection personnel or the referee in the presence of the person who presented the mask to weapons inspection or of the team captain of the fencer concerned.

Traditionally the mask is "crushed" and made completely unusable. Some armorers hit it with a quick-dry paint marking a bright red-"X" over its surface. Others have simple written "Failed" on the tongue and bib of the mask with a permanent marker.

In the SCA, except in the Middle Kingdom, there is no specified requirement what to do with the mask. The Marshal-in-charge could:

• ●  confiscate the mask for the duration of the tournament
• ●  ask the fencer to crush the mask, and watch them do it
• ●  ask the fencer if they would mind him marking the mask as failed (and use the
      paint or marker method, if the owner agrees).

Why the difference?

In the USFA, when you present your equipment for inspection, you are "surrendering" the rights to those weapons and armor while the technician does the inspection. In the SCA, participants do not surrender the rights to their property.

Can the mask be fixed?

Older masks might fail on the sides but be fine in the face of the mask. While this mask should be retired, limited use might be gained if the fencer glued or sewed a 4oz or heavier oak-tan leather completely over the sides of the mask. Older Sabre masks were manufactured this way. This may be acceptable to local SCA marshals. This will likely not be an acceptable fix for technicians inspecting at FIE competitions. If you are attempting to extend the life of a mask this way, be aware that the mask will be very hot to use and you will have a hard time hearing the officials during its use.

Masks that fail anywhere on the face of the mask are not fix-able and must be retired to ensure safety.

Mistakes Happen

Its sad to say, but mistakes can happen. Two different results may occur depending on the mistake:

• FALSE POSITIVE: this is where a mask test does not fail when it should. Common reasons for this include:
  • ●  Weak Spring
  • ●  Angled use of mask punch
  • ●  Prematurely stopping downward pressure (usually in the tactile method because flesh of
        your thumb enters the shaft). Or a the shaft has come loose and is out-of calibration. (see
        above usage notes for TCA mask punch)
  • ●  Allstar mask-punch use on older masks (see above section detailing the Allstar mask
        punch.)
• 
  FALSE NEGATIVE: this is where the punch enters to the shoulder. Unfortunately, the mask is not repairable.
  • ●  In use, the mask punch is torqued or pressed beyond 12 kg.
    ●  Tactile method if the person testing the mask pressed the plunger hard into his or her
        thumb.
    ●  Visual method if the person testing the mask does not stop once the visual indicator has
        been met or passed.

If you think your mask has been failed due to a mistake, you must appeal the decision in the USFA immediately to the bout committee. In the SCA, through the marshallate command-chain. That usually means to the regional or kingdom fencing marshal.

If you find that you made a mistake while using a mask punch and provided a FALSE NEGATIVE, the responsible and honorable action is to immediately replace the fencers mask with a new one. Accepting this responsibility must go along with the use of a mask punch.

Do testers wear out?

A mask tester is often labeled with the the exact pressure it exerts when the plunger is depressed to the level of the indicator. I have seen 12.5kg and 13kg punches. These figures are all within the FIE specifications.

Over time, though, the spring wears. One should regularly check their mask punch with an accurate scale to ensure that it is delivering sufficient force to test a mask. 12kg in pounds is approximately 26.5lbs. (26.455471lbs to be exact.)

A mask punch that is significantly out of calibration can be repaired by fitting it with a new spring.

With proper care, the actual punch should never wear. The TCA mask punch is engineered with a removable punch -- so, in theory, if any wear was ever detected, it could be replaced. Experience and history indicates that mask technology will radically change before even the most heavily used mask punch will wear out.

More about Mask Safety

American Fencing magazine featured two excellent articles about the development of the mask punch and the safety (or its lack) of earlier standards. Professor Joe Byrnes wrote in his "Technical Talk" column:

The Purpose of the Punch Test

• Fall 1993 - Vol. 44 No. 1
   

• Something More About Mask
  Winter 1994 - Vol. 44 No. 2

LAMES

LAME MAINTENANCE

Your lame, aside from being the object of your opponents blade, is basically a thin jacket with a layer of finely woven metallic threads all over the outside.

Every point on the outside of the lame should conduct electricity. This is critical to scoring and critical to your match if it fails since you normally carry only one lame to a meet!

A lame can fail for a couple of reasons:

1. Some of the threads may break and cause a dead spot. Sometimes the spots can be large but usually are small.

2. Body sweat creates salt that can eat away and corrode the metal fibers. This will happen especially around the neck and underarms. Although it may not create a total dead spot, it can increase the resistance in these areas enough to cause a problem.

Fixing a dead spot is not normally something you want to attempt at a meet as it can be time consuming. Sewing a small patch over a dead spot is an option. There are also metallic paints available for small spots.

Although washing a lame is not recommended by all, some feel that a good rinsing cannot hurt. Hang the lame on a plastic hanger and take it into the shower with you and give it a good rinsing in warm water. Don't wring it out because that can stress the metal fibers. Let it drip dry.

Courtesy: Armorer Bjornstad - Culver Fencing Club

CARE OF UNIFORMS

The following article is a good all-around description of how to take care of you uniform components (mask, jacket, underarm protector, knickers, glove, shoes and lame) on a day-to-day basis...

It was written by David Goldsmith of Florida Fencing.

Download Adobe Acrobat (free)►

WIRING

HOW WIRING WORKS

Here is a simple explanation of how the wiring (from fencer to reels) works:

Courtesy: Jeffrey Sherman

Electric fencing rests upon 3 wires A,B,C. The picture below illustrates the position of the wires at the fencer's end of the reel. They remain in this position all the way back to the machine.

How the weapons are wired:

I am using the following notation for the wiring explanation:
A1,B1,C1 refers to Fencer 1's A,B and C wires.
A2,B2,C2 refers to Fencer 2's A,B and C wires.
Base state, is the circuit state with the 2 fencer's isolated

Epee

I am starting with Epee because it has the simplest wiring scheme.

Base state: In the base state, A, B and C are all isolated from each other.

A touch in Epee is scored when A1 comes in contact with B1, or A2 with B2. Both the A and B wires are located in the Epee tip, and connect when the tip is depressed.
If A1 and B1 connect, but A1 also connects with C2, no touch is scored. The tip has been depressed on the opponent's "grounded" weapon. The same is true for an A2,B2,C1 circuit.

 

Sabre

Sabre comes next because it's wiring is almost identical to Epee.

Base state: A1 to C1, A2 to C2, however this is optional, as explained below.

The only difference is that the touch circuit is A1 to B2, and A2 to B1.
The sabre is the A wire, while the lame is the B wire. The C wire is constantly connected to the A wire as a diagnostic of the weapon. If A1 and C1 (or A2 and C2) are not in contact, that is an indication that something is wrong with the weapon. However, this is not a universal rule, and not all Sabre's are wired with A touching C.

 

Foil

Foil has the most complex wiring scheme

To get the foil system working, you are required to create a lead off of the 2 A wires, and thread them back to the machine (this step is not required for Epee or Sabre). The lead has to have a higher resistance than any of the other wires. I will refer to the leads as A1a and A2a.

Base state: A1 to C1 and A2 to C2.

When the tip of a foil is depressed, the A to C circuit is broken. For an on-target touch, the circuit becomes A1 to B2, A2 to B1.
However, if A the C circuit is broken without an on-target touch, you get the following mess:
For an off-target, non-weapon touch, all circuit's will be open, causing the electricity to flow threw th